Savanah, Georgia – The Garden of Good and Evil

Savannah, Georgia, is a surprisingly vibrant city. A city hard at work reinventing itself while maintaining its historical charm. My October 2022 visit was an unplanned excursion, and I am so glad I made the stop.

My first stop was River Street, a cobblestone street lined with restaurants, shops, and art galleries. River Street is located along the Savannah River and offers breathtaking water views and views of the city skyline. Visitors can enjoy various activities on River Street, including strolling along the riverfront, shopping at local boutiques, and dining at one of the many restaurants. Also, don’t pass up the chance to take a riverboat cruise while you’re there. If you do, you may hear the story of the waving girl and see a few dolphins in the river water.

If you want easy access to the riverfront, the Hyatt Regency Savannah is an ideal place to stay. In addition to River Street, the Hyatt is within walking distance to shopping and dining destinations on or near Broughton Street, Franklin, Ellis, Johnson and Reynolds Squares, and the First African Baptist Church.

I opted to stay at the Desoto Hotel, which put me within an easy walk to morning coffee at Savannah Coffee Roasters, The Basilica of St. John the Baptist, Madison Square, Chatham Square, and Monterrey Square. As a Chicagoan, I was most excited to visit Monterrey Square. For one, there is a grand monument to our own Casimir Pulaski. For two, because the Mercer-Williams home is just across the street. This is where Danny Hansford and Jim Williams died. John Berendt immortalized their story in “The Book” Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.

I only had a few days to see Savannah, so I took advantage of the bus and boat tours. If you’re new to the city, I’d recommend it. There is so much history. You’ll miss a lot trying to see it all on your own. Just know that most tours don’t venture further south than Forsythe Park.

If you can, ride down Bull Street into the Starland District. Maybe visit Back in the Day Bakery. After sweet bread and an espresso, circle the block. You’ll see Starland Yard, a hip and modern shipping container complex. It’s home to Pizzeria Vittoria, Yard Bar, and a rotating list of food trucks. After a few beers and a slice of Neapolitan, make two more lefts. Now you’re back at Bull street and 41^st. Check out the amazing murals. I loved this area. Keep going down East 41^st and check out the colorful houses. This street reminded me more of San Francisco than the South. Make another left at Drayton. At 40^th… more colorful homes!

I’ll have to revisit Savanah to explore the beaches of Tybee Island and perhaps a few of those picturesque graveyards like Bonaventure Cemetery. A testament to the city, Savannah left me wanting more! From what I gather the Savannah College of Art and Design is responsible for a lot of the rebirth that is happening in Savannah. Seeing what creatives can do with urban development at scale warms my heart. Well done, Savanah, well done!

A FEW MORE TIPS FOR VISITING SAVANAH

• Spanish Moss is beautiful but it carries chiggers. Don’t touch it or suffer a thousand bites by these unseen critters.
• If you visit Chippewa Square looking for  Forest Gump’s bus stop, the bench is not there. It was a prop. Check out the James Edward Oglethorpe monument while you’re there. He was the founder of the colony of Georgia.
• The statue of the Bird Girl (Little Wendy) immortalized by photographer Jack Leigh on the cover of John Berendths’ book is no longer in Bonaventure cemetery. You can see it at Jepson Center for the Arts.